Before I get started on my experiences in Beijing and on the Great Wall, I would like to take this time to note some of the key differences that I noticed between China and Japan. Let's just say, that although there are, of course, many customs that these two countries share (in the past, the Japanese took many Chinese traditions and made them their own), I would go as far as to say that these countries are polar opposites in many ways. As I walked the streets of Beijing, several of the things I had noticed in Shanghai became much more apparent to me.
For instance, I noticed that the Chinese do not value cleanliness in the way the Japanese do. I wouldn't say there was more litter than normal, in fact the condition of the city reminded my strangely of NYC, but it was clear to me that I was not to expect a spotless street the way I expected in Japan. Also, I couldn't help but notice that people spit...a LOT. Everywhere I looked, people were spitting as they walked. I felt like I was constantly dodging it, as people would spit right on the ground in front of you and think nothing of it (although at times, I felt that they waited until I was close enough to spit right in the path I was walking. Not sure if that was my imagination or not). I suppose this spitting custom stems from the fact that almost everyone smokes cigarrettes.
Another fact that I found even more annoying than the spitting was the fact that it is cars, not pedestrians, who have the right of way on the road. Every time I crossed the street, I nearly had a heart attack from the number of cars blaring their horns at me and zooming by. Even at a crosswalk when I had a crossing signal, I had to be careful of cars making righthand turns, because they would literally just start turning into a crowd of people attempting to cross, expecting them to jump out of the way. This law, to put it simply, seemed ASS-BACKWARDS to me. Why the HELL should I be responsible for the actions that a person in a CAR is taking? Doesn't it make more sense for the person in the TWO TON MURDER VEHICLE to be on the lookout for people on the street?! My experience walking around in China was stressful and frustrating, to say the least.
The language barrier in China was much more difficult to deal with than in Japan. In Japan, not only do most people speak at least rudimentary English, but they will go out of their way to attempt to speak it to you, and help you in any way they can. In fact, if you ask a Japanese person for directions on the street, you can expect them to more or less drop what they are doing and WALK you to your destination. It was absolutely incredible how hospitable these people were. In China, not only could you not expect anyone to speak English, but they will simply start speaking Chinese to you, even if they are fully aware that you have NO idea what they are saying. In Japan, the language difference was a challenge, but in China, it was simply a barrier. It was extremely frustrating because I WAS interested in talking to these people, I WANTED to get to know them, and get their inside and views of the world. I wanted to learn from these people, but unfortunately, it was pretty much impossible to carry on a conversation.
I had to be in the Union at about 5 AM, so I don't know why I went to bed at all after my evening out Go-Karting in Shanghai. After about maybe an hour and a half of sleep, I got my sorry butt out of bed, got my backpack together with my eyes half-closed, and dragged my body to the Union. There were several other students on my "Hike of the Great Wall" trip there who I had gone out with the night before, and we all sat catatonically on the couches, waiting to be led to the busses that would take us to the airport, where we would board for Beijing. That entire morning seems like a dream..I hardly remember it at all because I was so exhausted. I think we were all grateful for the 2 hours we had to sleep on the plane.
After getting off the plane and getting our large group togehter (I would guesstimate there were about 50 of us on this trip), we were led out to our 2 busses, the ones we would more or less be living on in the following days. On my bus, bus B, I sat down and we were introduced to Michelle, our tour guide for the journey. Her english was near perfect, and she was extremely friendly and informative. The first thing she did was take us to lunch, where we met the tour guide for the other bus, Marco, Michelle's partner-in-crime.
After lunch, we were taken to our "Five-Star Hotel" in some random outskirt of Beijing. It was a strange area, not the big, colorful city that I had imagined at all. I got a sort of abandoned vibe from the street we were on, but maybe that was because it was still Chinese New Year, so many of the stores were still closed. However, our hotel was very nice, and our rooms were huge. It was awesome to have a Queen-sized bed all to myself, after I had gotten used to my tiny bed in my tiny cabin back on the ship. We had several hours of free time before dinner, so my roommate Emily and I decided to explore the hotel and the area around it. The only thing we accomplished was to get laughed out of 4 different banks in my vain attempt to exchange my travelers' checks. Not going to lie, it made me kind of bitter toward Chinese people in that moment, and I wished I was back in Japan, where people are so incredibly helpful.
Anyway, we went back to the room and napped before dinner, which was right down the street from the hotel. It was more or less the same oily Chinese food that we had at lunch. Already, I was starting to get tired/feel sick from the food. Afterwards, I walked with a few other people to a nearby grocery store to get some snacks and drinks for the evening. We were all pretty tired, so we just sat on some comfy couches in the sitting area on the 15th floor, where my room was, and had some wine before going to bed. As we sat there next to the huge window that faced the street, we had a perfect view of fireworks going on right outside the hotel, literally just about fifty feet away! After the display, we all went to bed early, since we had a big day on the Great Wall in the morning.
After a breakfast that did NOT consist of traditional Chinese food (YES!!), our group hopped on the bus for the Great Wall. Despite still being tired from the day before, I was practically jumping out of my seat in excitement. Walking on the Great Wall of China has been on my "bucket list" of things to do for a very long time. Upon seeing the Wall for the first time, at a distance from the bus, I immediately started snapping pictures. We pulled up to a small hostel, where we used the bathrooms and collected our bag lunches. We were all itching to get up to the Wall, but before we did, Marco and Michelle had us do some stretches, telling us that the day's hike was not only going to be very long (we were hiking 6 miles that day), but also very steep. My friends and I kind of made a joke out of the stretching exercises, and man, do I wish we hadn't. Within the first 20 minutes of the hike, I had taken off my sweatshirt, my hat, my gloves and my scarf, because I was getting so overheated from the climb.
*Side note!! At the beginning of our hike, we saw a group of SASers who were on the ChinaGuide trip (a tour that was not through SAS), and they were zip-lining off of the Wall, across a huge, glassy lake to the other side, where we had started our hike. I was so jealous that we were not going to be doing that! I think I found another thing to put on my "bucket list."
As we continued our hike, climbing higher and farther, across a rickety bridge and up staircases so steep that you had to look directly up to see the top of them, I looked back at one point, my legs burning and my body aching...and all of the air suddenly left my lungs. The Great Wall of China literally took my breath away. I could see miles behind me and miles ahead of me, this great stone wall, thousands of years old, standing alone through the middle of an otherwise brown, barren mountainside (I've been told that the area surrounding the Wall is much prettier in the spring). I started falling behind in the hike because I was taking so many pictures. Everywhere I looked, there was something scenic and beautiful that I felt I needed to be captured so I could remember it forever, although I must admit (and I've felt this a lot in my travels), none of the pictures I took really did justice to how powerful and beautiful the Great Wall truly is.
We spent about 7 hours on the reconstructed part of the Wall that day, going up and down the trecherous and steep stone steps between each beacon. I could have spent even longer there, I was enjoying myself so much. But eventually we made our way down, back to the busses, and I was surprised to see snow on the path we were walking. I had forgotten it is still winter, especially since I had just spent the day being overheated from the hike. A friend of mine from Hawai'i had never seen snow until that day, so we spent some time making snow angels on the path. Normal, I know. Needless to say, we all slept very well that night, and readied ourselves for the Great Wall part 2 that we would be hiking the next day.
After breakfast (which was quickly becoming my favorite meal of the day simply because it lacked Chinese food), we left for a different section of the Great Wall. We had to park the buses and walk through a small farming village in order to get to this part of the Wall. As we walked down the dirt path, past small houses on one side and piles of hay with chickens running all over the place, we saw people coming out of the woodwork to watch us passing through. It's a strange thing, feeling like an alien all the time. I'm sure these people rarely, if ever, see white people, and so to watch a gaggle of us walking right past their homes was very strange for them.
We passed the village and soon found ourselves going uphill, our path slowly becoming steeper the farther we walked. I found myself wondering when we were going to reach the Wall, when I realized that what we were climbing WAS the Wall. We had reached it and I had hardly noticed because I was expecting to see the same Wall I had seen the day before. This day, however, we were walking a part of the Wall that had NOT been reconstructed; the "ruined" part of the Wall. Looking ahead, I finally saw the familiar beacons and the stone structure that I had been expecting, but it looked different somehow. The ancient structure seemed almost part of the landscape around it.
The walk was much easier than it was the day before, not nearly as steep, but just as treacherous. You had to be especially careful walking downhill here because of all the small, loose rocks that you could slip on (and that I DID slip on, several times). We ate lunch inside one of the larger beacons, which consisted of...(drum roll please) MCDONALDS!! That's right...we had hired locals to backpack McDonald's up to the Great Wall for us. I ate fast food on the Great Wall of China. What a story.
Anyway, we reached the farthest we were allowed to walk before the Wall became a military base and got down off of it for the last time. Walking down the hill back toward the buses, I took one last look back at the Wall, feeling nostalgic about the time I had spent on this amazing structure over the past two days. The Great Wall was everything I had hoped it would be and more. It presented its challenges, some nearly impossible slopes and steps. It tested my balance, my stamina, and my determination, but in the end, it rewarded me with its incredible view. I had an amazing time on the Great Wall, and I would go back and do it again in a heartbeat.
That night, we stayed at the Marriot in a new area of Beijing. We were finally in the bright and colorful part of Beijing that I had imagined. We went out to dinner at a restaurant that was fancier than the ones we had been going to the last couple of days, and of course I was still gross from a day of hiking when we went there. But the food, although there were still many repeat Chinese dishes, was better than I expected it to be. We had duck, which was SO good. After that, we went back to the hotel to shower and get ready for a night out in Beijing!
Note to self: Do NOT drink and bring your cellphone out with you in China. You WILL be pickpocketed and you WILL lose your cellphone!!!! Yeah. Not the greatest night for me. However, I didn't let this one mishap ruin the whole trip for me, especially since it was my fault to begin with. So I decided to go back to the hotel and just get some sleep.
The last morning of the trip, we got up wayyyy too early to check out of the hotel and go to Tienanmen Square and the Forbidden City. It was strange to be in the middle of the Square, after watching so much footage of the history of this place, that massacre that occured here, and NOT be allowed to talk about it. According to Michelle, the Chinese police don't allow the people to discuss the events that took place here. It was strange to me to have that freedom of speech taken away from me, and in that moment, I began to appreciate that not everyone in the world is blessed with the same freedoms that I have come to expect as an American.
We walked through the Square and followed our tour guides down a tunnel in order to cross the street and get to the Forbidden City, which once served as the imperial palace, where the Emperor of China would live, and now houses the Palace Museum. Walking through this expansive structure, with its intricate and colorful architecture, I was surprised each time we passed through another set of doors which led to yet another huge quad surrounded by even more walls. The palace seemed to stretch on forever. One of our tour guides, Marco, asked us, "If you were born in one of these rooms, and from that day on, you spent in a new room every night, how old would you be when you made it back to the room you were born in?" After several guesses, he told us, "You would be 26 years old." That's because there are 8,707 rooms in the Forbidden City.
After our tour through the Palace, we got back on the buses and went to a traditional Tea Ceremony. We sat around a few tables and got to sample many different teas, and all of them were fragrant, sweet and delicious in their own way. Then we had our last meal of Chinese food for lunch (Thank God!) before heading to the airport, where we left for Hong Kong to meet up with the ship.